Tour Day 2

I am currently between locations - this morning was spent ticking off the major highlights of the complex of ruins in Anuradhapura. And my general conclusion - I think I have seen enough stupas to last a lifetime. For those who are unfamiliar with what a stupa is, it is a sort of Buddhist shrine/monument, a dome topped with a spire. Inside are kept relics of the Buddha, as well as gems and gold. And they are usually entirely built of brick, then plastered on the outside. And when I say entirely of brick, I mean they are a solid pile of bricks. The relics and riches are inaccessible. The riches are there so that should the stupa ever need repair, there is money to pay for it; of course, the repair need would have to be major, as getting to the financing requires serious disassembly. The relics are what make it worthy of religious attention I suppose. 

This is an extremely religious country - there are stupas and temples and mosques and churches everywhere. I don't think they are generally as rabid about their religions here as in the U.S., but what do I know - everybody is speaking in Sinhalese or Tamil. 

Today's driving adventure included a near miss. I only know this because my driver got extremely irate at a fellow driver. The offense was unclear to me - I could not distinguish this near-miss from the constant stream of others - but it certainly raised Sunil's hackles. The series of events, as best I remember, involved the offending party, in oncoming traffic, pulling in front of us; Sunil slamming on the brakes and making guttural sounds, then much glaring and *very* slow driving while continuing to glare, and finally passing on our way, with irritated silence for some while after. I saw a similar display earlier in the day between two of the countless stray dogs inhabiting this island, who are usually very mellow and too hot to fight, but occasionally find some reason to become aggressive with one another. 

I just finished my lunch - a buffet at a "hotel," much like the one I had yesterday. Apparently drivers who bring guests to these establishments are given a free meal. The clientele here is exclusively, suspiciously, white. I haven't encountered any other Americans so far - they are primarily Australian, Dutch, German, French and Chinese. I don't think I've see any British, which seems strange, given that this was a British colony until the 1940's.

After eating my salad course, I went back for the main, and my fork had been cleared along with my salad plate. I was tempted to simply dig in like a Sri Lankan - they just use their fingers, no matter how saucy the curry (I was offered a fork at Kalli's for the family meals Monday, but decided to "go native" and after a few pointers, now feel quite confident in my new skill) - but decided it would be easier for all if I just maintained my tourist role, or "Madame" (*not* madam - what kind of woman do you think I am?!). All the people I have encountered in the tourism service industry have addressed me as "Madame" - "Would Madame care for some tea?", "Welcome Madame", "Thank you for coming Madame" - it is very strange to be addressed, and generally treated, so obsequiously.